Planners and managers should also be aware that the coastal environment is dynamic and contextual science should be evaluated before implementation of any shore profile modification.
2.
The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile . " The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in the lee of the ripple.
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